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Luzhi

Slow Talk in Fuli | Every Step, a Touch of Elegance—“Bridging” to the Timeless Alleys of Luzhi Old Street


Recently, the website of the Suzhou Civil Affairs Bureau has published…
The Second Batch of Suzhou’s List of Protected Cultural Place Names
Conduct public notice
These place names in Luzhi have been selected.
I. Bridges (24)
Zhengyang Bridge, Huayang Bridge, Tongyu Bridge, Xianghua Bridge, Fengyang Bridge, Taiping Bridge, Guangji Bridge, HuanYu Bridge, HuanBi Bridge, Datong Bridge, Zhong’an Bridge, Sanyuan Bridge, Xinglong Bridge, Nanchang Bridge, Shoukang Bridge, Fumin Bridge, Shouchang Bridge, Jinding Bridge, Xianghua Bridge in Dayao Village, Yongning Bridge, Dajue Temple Bridge, Zhongmei Bridge, Dongmei Bridge, Jinli Bridge
 
II. Streets and Alleys (7)
Xihui Street, Mianniujing Canal, Xianghua Alley, Candle Alley, Daijia Alley, Sanguan Alley, Yamen Canal
 
“The bridge carries the temple, and the temple carries the bridge,”
“Three steps, two bridges; one glance, three bridges.”
This popular little rhyme from Luzhi
It is precisely a concise representation of the ancient bridges of Luzhi.
Clear waters meander, and homes nestle along the river.
An ancient bridge spanning the waterways of Luzhi.
Together with the intricate network of ancient streets and alleys
Tempered by the passage of time
Writing down the ceaseless tales of comings and goings in the watery countryside.
In Luzhi, “bridges” reveal the beauty of Jiangnan.
 
The ancient bridge stands as it did then, its carvings echoing the timeless charm of the Song Dynasty.
 
  To this day, Luzhi preserves several ancient bridges that date back to the Song Dynasty, earning it the well-deserved titles of “Bridge Capital of the Water Town” and “China’s Museum of Historic Bridges.” Over the passage of time, these centuries-old structures have stood the test of a thousand years, their splendor undiminished, and they continue to keep alive the cultural heartbeat of Luzhi.

Hefeng Bridge, also known as the Sino‑American Bridge, spans the junction of the East and West City Rivers in the ancient town. Built during the Song Dynasty, it is the town’s oldest surviving bridge and one of the oldest extant stone arch bridges in the Jiangnan region. With a single‑span opening of 10 meters, the bridge faithfully preserves the Song‑era technique of constructing its arches. Despite the passage of time, it continues to see boats coming and going and streams of pedestrians, evoking the timeless charm of the Song era.

The Dajue Temple Bridge and the Dayao Xianghua Bridge, both located in Dayao Natural Village, are also two flat-beam bridges that date back to the Song Dynasty. The Dajue Temple Bridge features relief carvings of Buddhist and mythological motifs; its sculptural technique is smooth and rounded, with fluid lines, endowing it with exceptional artistic value. In 1995, the Dayao Xianghua Bridge and the Dajue Temple Bridge were jointly designated as Jiangsu Provincial Cultural Relics Protection Sites.

The story is delicate, capturing the essence of Jiangnan.
 
  Times have changed, yet the bridges of Luzhi not only connect the slow‑paced lives of the water‑town residents but have also become popular photo‑ops for visitors eager to soak in the region’s quintessential charm. Each ancient bridge carries the deep, enduring legacy of the past while quietly sustaining the tender, evocative stories of the present.

Crossing Xianghua Bridge and stepping into Xianghua Lane, this short alley is one of the oldest in the ancient town; at its end stands the famed Baosheng Temple. Walking through Xianghua Lane feels like traversing a thousand years, slipping back into the breezes of the Tang and the moonlit nights of the Song—poetic and lingeringly evocative.

At No. 7 Xianghua Lane, enjoy a cup of tea at Xinlan Jupin, savoring the tranquil moments of Luzhi amid vintage charm and the fresh aroma of tea.

Jinli Bridge is situated at the eastern end of Xihui Shangtang Street, where it meets Zhongshi Street. Together with the teahouse to its south, it forms a quintessential landmark of the ancient town.

This spot was once the filming location for the “Daughter Kingdom” episode of the 1986 version of “Journey to the West,” where the four pilgrims first entered the realm. Tourists and fans alike gather by the bridge—some strike poses reminiscent of Tang Sanzang and his disciples, while others mimic the regal demeanor of the Daughter Kingdom’s queen, asking their companions to snap a photo to mark their visit.

Standing on the bridge, you can take in the bustling splendor of Zhongshi Street and Xihui Street; as a boat glides by, the boatwoman’s swift rowing reveals the vibrant scenery of Zhongshi Street, unfolding before your eyes.

@Photography Cao Guangnuan
 
  Jinli Bridge embodies the auspicious meaning of “wealth flowing in abundance,” and together with bridges such as Xinglong Bridge, Zhong’an Bridge, Taiping Bridge, and Jinding Bridge, it bears witness to Luzhi’s storied history of prosperity and thriving commerce, while also looking forward to the present—when its people live in peace and contentment, enjoying long lives and bountiful harvests.
@Photography Cao Guangnuan
 
  Jinli Bridge embodies the auspicious meaning of “wealth flowing in abundance,” and together with bridges such as Xinglong Bridge, Zhong’an Bridge, Taiping Bridge, and Jinding Bridge, it bears witness to Luzhi’s storied history of prosperity and thriving commerce, while also looking forward to the present—when its people live in peace and contentment, enjoying long lives and bountiful harvests.

Located at the easternmost tip of the ancient town, Zhengyang Bridge is the largest historic stone bridge in Luzhi Ancient Town. Constructed during the Ming and Qing dynasties, it boasts a span of 9.9 meters, its arch resembling a long rainbow. In bygone days, it was counted among the “Eight Scenic Spots of Fuli,” known as “Long Rainbow Reflecting the Moon.” As the Qing‑dynasty poet Ge Run wrote in his poem “Long Rainbow Reflecting the Moon”: “A round, vast moon shines upon the river’s beam, while the rainbow’s shadow curves like an endless ribbon. A single stream of cold light flows on without end, and the sound of the jade flute chills the night as dawn begins to cool.”

In the western courtyard of Baosheng Temple stands what is said to be Luzhi’s “smallest” bridge: the East Chuihong Bridge and the West Chuihong Bridge. Spanning the Douya Pond, these two bridges, with the Qingfeng Pavilion in their midst—resembling a temple—form a distinctive “temple‑over‑bridge” scene together with the petite, exquisitely crafted Chuihong Bridge.

Three steps, two bridges—guarding the charm of the water town.
 
  What is Jiangnan? Bridges are one of its indispensable poetic symbols. The Twin Bridges, with their “bridges linking to bridges” and the rhythm of “three steps, two bridges,” are as graceful as the tonal patterns in classical poetry.

Within the town of Luzhi, there are as many as five pairs of bridges: Hefeng Bridge and Huanyu Bridge, Dongmei Bridge and Jiaohui Bridge—one square, one round; Sanyuan Bridge and Wan’an Bridge—one tall, one low; Nanchang Bridge and Yongfu Bridge—one wide, one narrow; and also Jin’an Bridge and Huanbi Bridge—each contributing to Luzhi’s timeless charm along its rivers and arches.

The renowned painter Yang Mingyi came to Luzhi and captured “Festivals in the Water Town” beneath the Dongmei Bridge and the Jiaohui Bridge.

Figure: “Festival in the Water Town” by Yang Mingyi
  San Guan Lane and Mian Niu Jing Bang, located near San Yuan Bridge and Wan An Bridge, have also been included in the list. Stretching from the north bank of Wan An Bridge in the west to Ri Mao Chang in the east, this stretch of the river is relatively wide with a slow current; in the past, herdsmen often led their oxen to drink and rest on the muddy banks. Hence the river came to be known as Mian Niu Jing, and the narrow alley alongside it was named “Mian Niu Jing Bang.”

When Mr. Ye Shengtao was teaching in Luzhi, he and his wife often walked along the Mianniu Jingbang to “No. 5 High School” for their classes. After revisiting Luzhi in 1977, the venerable scholar wrote with deep emotion: “At Douya Pool, remnants still linger; by Mianniu Jing, I recall our steps side by side.” In the water‑town’s narrow lanes and alleys, enduring human stories are quietly tucked away at every turn.

Today, tourists flock here, pausing on the Sanyuan and Wan’an Bridges, while at the Hefeng and Huanyu Bridges, they capture with their cameras the poetic, picturesque scenery of Luzhi. Just stepping off one bridge, they climb onto another; between every three steps and two bridges, they savor the unique charm and ambiance that belong only to this Jiangnan water town.


The stars and the seasons have changed.
Spring departs, autumn arrives.
The ancient bridges of Luzhi
Etched with the weathered marks of time
Within a small space
Witnessing the charm of Jiangnan here.

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Children aged six years or younger (inclusive) or measuring 1.4 meters or less in height (inclusive), seniors aged 70 years or older (inclusive), persons with disabilities, and one accompanying caregiver of a person with a severe disability are exempt from admission fees upon presentation of valid identification.